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As climbers begin to reach the summit of Mount Everest, some veterans are avoiding the Nepali side of the world's highest peak because melting ice and crowds have made its famed Khumbu Icefall too unsafe.

The 48-year-old Sherpa successfully reached the 8,848-metre high peak on Wednesday morning, breaking the previous record of 21 climbs jointly held by fellow Nepalis Appa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa.

Kami made his first ascent of Everest in 1994 when he was 24.

Officials said Kami Rita reached the summit on Wednesday with a team of foreign climbers, while Lakpa Sherpa reached the peak from the Chinese side.

"The icefall is obviously a risky place to be, especially later on in the season and with increased temperatures experienced in the Himalayas due to climate change", Phil Crampton of the climbing company Altitude Junkies told the Everest blogger Alan Arnette earlier this year.

Nepalese mountaineer Lhakpa Sherpa prepares to leave for an expedition to Everest in Kathmandu on April 18, 2018.

Kami Rita Sets Everest Record With 22nd Climb to Summit
Kami Rita Sets Everest Record With 22nd Climb to Summit

Before leaving the Everest base camp, Kami had announced that he intends to climb Everest 25 times. The next most accomplished female Everest climber is American Melissa Sue Arnot, who has reached the top six times.

Alpenglow Expeditions said in a statement: "Multiple teams using the same device have experienced similar oxygen system failures".

Sherpa is a single mom to three kids and lives in Hartford, Connecticut where she works as a dishwasher at the local Whole Foods.

Xia Boyu is not the first double-amputee to reach Everest's peak, but he is the oldest.

The daughter of a yak herder, Ms Lhakpa worked as a porter and kitchen hand on trekking and mountaineering expeditions, before becoming a climber herself.

While many Everest climbers train for months for the arduous journey, Sherpa credits the physical demands of her job and the fact that she was raised up above 13,000 feet for her ability to climb "off the couch".

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